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Soap Recipe


Hand-milling or "rebatching" is a good way to get the feel for soap-making without having to handle any caustic ingredients.  You can also use a double boiler, but we
recommend the crock pot method. The soap will take about 2 hours to make.

Basic Materials:
Shredded Soap Base (click for recipe)
Crock pot, small or medium size
Glass measuring cup
Wooden spoon
Whole milk or 2%
Powdered milk (secret ingredient)
Any additives, such as herb, flowers, grains, cornmeal, oatmeal, etc.
Colorant chips or liquid dye (optional)
Any fragrance oil or essential oil* (fragrance oils work great in rebatching)
Optional: additional oils such as sweet almond, jojoba, vitamin E
Mold/s (lightly greased with Vaseline)
Drying rack

You may halve, quarter or double this recipe as needed.

Start by measuring out 4-6 cups of shredded base soap or as much as will fit into your crock pot without going past the half-way mark.  Measure out about 1 cup of milk (you'll add this as needed, you may not use it all or you may need to add a bit more).  Add ½ cup of milk to the crock pot and the shredded soap, put the lid on the pot and set it on the lowest temperature setting.  Check the mixture every 15 min. or so and gently stir with your wooden spoon, but try not to make bubbles.  If it looks very dry, add a little more milk, and so on, until all the shredded soap is melted.

After an hour or so, the mixture should have the consistency of soft mashed potatoes.  It also may look lumpy.  Add about ½ cup of powdered milk.  The powdered milk will make the mixture very smooth and easy to pour.  Go ahead and add any additional ingredients, such as Vitamin E or
grapefruit seed extract (which act as a preservative).  You can also add additional oils ( ½ -1 tsp.) such as castor (for shampoo like lather), almond oil or jojoba oil, etc. at this time.

When you're ready to add your colorant, herbs, and fragrance, remove the amount of soap needed for your size mold from the crock pot and place it into the measuring cup.  Mix in your final ingredients, amounts of color, herbs, fragrance will vary depending on your liking, and pour into molds.

The soap should be easy to pour, but not too runny.  Leave your soaps in their molds overnight or until dry and remove the next dry.  If you're having difficulty removing soap from the mold, place mold into the freezer for a few minutes for easier release.

Cure the soaps for 1 week on a drying rack.  Wrap individual soaps to preserve their scent.  

Tip: As long as your crock pot is set at the lowest temperature, your can leave your soap simmering until you're ready to mix and mold.  Just check it to be sure it doesn't get too dry. 



Soap Base (Makes 8 lbs.)

24 oz. olive oil
24 oz. coconut oil
38 oz. vegetable shortening (Crisco)
12 oz. lye
32 oz. distilled water
3-4 oz. any essential or fragrance oil  

Equipment Needed:
Scale that weighs in pounds and ounces
Large one gallon stainless steel or enamel pot (use this exclusively for soap-making)
2 plastic pitchers, 2-3 quart size
Hand stick blender (optional, but makes tracing  a breeze)
Plastic measuring cup 2-3 cup size
2 wooden spoons (one for the lye and one for the oils- use these exclusively for
    soap-making)
2 kitchen thermometers (one for the lye and one for the oils - must read to over 100
    degrees)
Rubber gloves
Safety goggles
Clear plastic container with snap-on lid 8" x 11" x 3" deep, or wooden soap mold 
     lined with freezer paper
Large piece of cardboard the size of the plastic container - used as a lid
Old blanket
Freezer paper or plastic garbage bags

Be sure to allow for the weight of the containersLye (such as Red Devil),  can be purchased at any hardware store.  All ingredients should be weighed.

Begin by putting on your goggles and rubber gloves and weigh out 12 oz. of lye into one of the plastic containers.  Weigh out 32 oz. of distilled water into the other container.  Slowly and in a steady stream pour the lye into the water, stirring until dissolved.  Do this in a well ventilated area and try not to splash.  Let the lye/water mixture sit until the temperature reaches between 90-100 degrees.  This may take several hours, but if you're in a hurry you can place the container in a cold water bath to bring down the temperature quicker. 

In the meantime, get your oils ready by weighing out 24 oz. of coconut oil and 38 oz. of vegetable shortening and placing them into your pot.  Heat them up just until they melt and then remove from heat and add the 24 oz. of olive oil.  Stir to incorporate and put one of the thermometers into the pot to check the temperature.  The oils will also have to be between 90-100 degrees. Both the lye/water mixture and the oils will have to be at the same temperature before incorporating them.

Prepare your additives.  Start with just 3-4 oz. of essential oil or a combination of essential oils (blend).  (*Note-some essential oil scents are stronger, so use less; some are lighter and you may add more depending on your taste).  Also, measure out 1/4 cup of any dried herbs or flowers (optional).  Its best to start simple for your first batch.  You can also measure out 1-3 tablespoons of pigment (optional) for coloring. 

Grease the clear plastic container that you're using as your mold and place a piece of freezer paper on the bottom of the container for easy release OR line the container with a plastic garbage bag
.

Check the temperature of the lye and oils.  When they reach between 90-100 degrees, its time to "make soap."  Slowly pour the lye/water mixture into the oils, stirring continuously.  You may continue to stir using the wooden spoon or switch to the stick blender.  Stir or blend in all the lye and you will begin to see the mixture thicken.  Just as the mixture thickens to the point where you see tracks or "trace" in the soap, add  essential oils and any dried ingredients or colorants.  Remove about 2 cups of the mixture and add the colorant to the 2 cups.  Then add that back into the pot.  Continue to stir or blend until you see designs on the top of the soap (this is known as tracing and can happen in 10-40 minutes depending on the temperature of your mixture).  Quickly add the mixture to the mold.  Cover with the lid.  *Note* if the soap mixture does not fill the mold to the top, place the piece cardboard on top of the soap and then put the lid on the container.  Wrap in blankets and place in an undisturbed area for 18 hours.   Remove the blankets and lid and leave the soap in the mold for another 12 hours. 

You should have a nice hard block of fresh soap which you can now remove from the mold.  Let the block of soap sit for a day to firm up or slice into bars or chunks immediately. Then place bars in an open box or drying rack for 2 weeks or longer.  The soap should be cured completely after 2 weeks, but the longer it cures, the milder and harder it will be. 


These recipes are courtesy of the Ponte Vedra Soap Shop.


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